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ABOUT
ROME-FLORENCE AND VENICE - (INDEPENDENT STAY BY
RAIL) |
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Where to Stay
Rome can be
conquered on foot, just ask the armies of visitors that invade Rome
each day. Although the public transportation system in Rome is very
modern and inexpensive, you'll want to stay right in the center,
where most of Rome's attractions are and have been for thousands of
years.
Choose
a hotel near the main rail station or the Spanish Steps for easy
access to most of the action. Most hotels in Rome offer modern
amenities and classic comforts, so you won't be hard-pressed to find
a good home during your Roman holiday.
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Getting to Your Hotel
...From
Fiumicino International Airport
Consult the tourist office or pick up a free city
map and train schedule to see which of the two airport trains
reaches a point closest to your hotel. The Airport-Termini express
will get you to the main rail station, which is on the subway route
and served by lots of taxis. The fare is about $10 and takes 20 to
30 minutes. The FM1 train is a little more than half that, takes the
same amount of time, and stops at Trastevere, Ostiense, and
Tiburtina rail stations, where you can also find the subway and
taxis.
...From
Termini Station
Most tourists arriving
by train come to Termini Station, a huge structure with every
facility you'd expect to find at the main train station of one of
the biggest cities in Europe. The train station is along the subway
route, and subway maps, bus schedules, as well as taxi stands are
available throughout the station.
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At Your Hotel
Free city
maps and other information can usually be obtained in hotel lobbies
or from the front desk.
Check in,
freshen up, and, with your bags unpacked, your room key in your
pocket, and a few spare euros, you're ready to do as the Romans
do!
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Getting Around
Public
transportation in Rome is very good. The only faster, more
maneuverable form of transportation in Rome is the vespa, and no
matter how hard you try, you won't look as cool as the Romans do.
Opt for a 75-minute, roughly $1 ticket good for all forms of public
transport anywhere in the city. For about $6 you can get a ticket
valid for a whole day. Both are available at kiosks, tobacco stands,
cafes, tourist offices, subway stations, bus stops, newsstands...
yeah, they're not hard to find.
Taxis are
expensive and taxi drivers are opportunists. Whenever possible, call
ahead, or better yet, have an Italian call ahead for you. It's a
little more expensive (than the actual fare, but cheaper than the
rigged fare) but much more reliable. Discuss a price before you get
in and/or triple-check the meter on your way out. If you have to
hail a taxi on the street, look for "official" yellow or white cabs,
as these are the legitimate ones.
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Around Rome
You really
can't get more looks for your lira anywhere in Italy. Rome is so
full of incredibly beautiful things that it's no wonder many people
treat it as a movie set. It can't possibly be real. But so it is.
Much of it is magnifico, a few things are mezza mez, and a few
others are "ehh, fuggetaboutit." Here's our list:
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Musts:
Trevi Fountain: This spot is useful for many
reasons, not the least of which is that it's where a whole lot of
people hang out and do nothing. Find this spectacular fountain,
throw your obligatory coin in, and come back any time you need to
relax, study a map, memorize a pick-up phrase, or just stare at the
really good looking people in nice clothes. It's really beautiful
even when it's empty (of people, not water), and it's surrounded by
cafes and great gelato shops.
The Spanish Steps: At the head of Rome's most
exclusive shopping district are the Spanish Steps. Keats aside, the
steps are not that interesting in themselves, but they are
beautiful. And it's kind of neat to walk up them (though there's not
much up there but more street) and pose for a street artist or shop
the jewelry, flower, or chachka vendors. Visit twice, once when it's
crowded during the day and once when it's lit up at
night.
St. Peter's Basillica: Even non-religious types
flock here for the sheer majesty of it all. Inside, mass can be a
unique experience, but even if you only happen to catch choir
practice you're in for a treat. Every sound that emanates from here
is angelic. If you're interested in Mass, it's typically not a
problem, as long as you're not an entire busload trying to get in at
the last minute on Good Friday. Sunday mornings get crowded, but
services are held a lot!
...and the Vatican: Around the rest of the complex
are many, many things to see and explore. The Vatican museums, some
interior rooms, the Sistine Chapel, Michelangelo's Dome (great view
if you can make it to the top), the crypt, and if you make
reservations in advance, the tomb of St. Peter, are just a few of
the draws. Of course, getting in and out of the sanctuary and a few
other areas are free, as are some guided tours, but other areas
require a fee or a suggested a donation (heh HEM!). Most people in
Rome know the drill by heart, and anyone inside will be happy to
help you figure out what to do and how much it may cost.
NOTE:
Photography is strictly forbidden in many areas, and visitors must
be silent during their visit and wear appropriate
clothing.
The Roman Forum: You shouldn't have any trouble
imagining vestal virgins guarding fires, Roman orators politicking
from stumps, or cows chomping on grass, which are the three main
things that happened here in lore, history, and more modern times.
Excavated during the 19th century, the Roman Forum is a magical
place to explore with a good map (on any neighboring street) by day
and a simply breathtaking place to admire by
moonlight.
Palatine Hill: Romulus, the legendary founder of
Rome, is said to have instructed settlers to build on Palatine Hill
first, and thus the beginnings of empire. Actually, this was a
critical location along the salt trade and, though there probably
are no she-wolves and gods of war involved, is the historical
birthplace of ancient Rome. It's also the former home of two ancient
temples, one that faced the Colosseum and one that faced the Roman
Forum. There are sweeping views of both areas, as well as quiet
gardens and paths.
Colosseum: The amphitheater could once seat
80,000 sensationalism-deprived Romans, and was later used as a
marble quarry (to build the nearby Palazzo Venezia). Today, they let
fewer than that in at a time, though the line to get in rarely gets
long enough to be frustrating.
Museo Nazionale Romano: Well, it seems not all of
Rome's wonders are out on the streets, soaking up sun, or speeding
on a scooter. Some are housed under glass and behind little laser
fences at the National Museum (di Roma). Spread among three ancient
buildings, the museum houses ancient frescoes, the Ludovisi Throne,
as well as other Roman, Greek, ancient, and historical masterpieces
and collections. Like the rest of Rome, it's a stew of epochs,
styles, and influences. Entry to each building is separate, but
ranges from $8 to $13.
Gelato: Creamy, frozen, yet not really ice cream.
Do it.
Dinner in
Trastevere: ...followed by a slow walk home, or a horse-drawn
carriage ride in nice weather, is something enjoyed equally by
locals and tourists. Somewhere in this romantic neighborhood there
is a bowl of pasta, a glass of chianti, a bottle of sparkling water,
a delicious salad, and a tempting, rich dessert with your name on
it. Head out early to avoid the crowds, or eat late (8, 9, or 10
p.m.) to join them.
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Maybes:
Constantine's Arch: It's an arch. But it's huge
and it has been standing for nearly 2,000 years.
Pantheon: It's truly remarkable because it's
virtually all original. Constructed more than 2,000 years ago and
rebuilt by Hadrian (of "The Wall" fame), it is impressive on first
sight, and is also the eternal resting place of the kings of
Italy.
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You Can Probably Skip
It
Road Trips: Rome's location
makes it a great spot from which to see the rest of the country. But
doing this by train is much easier than by car. The cost for rental
cars in Italy can be a little high, theft is more of a problem in
Italy than most other parts of Western Europe, and frankly, Italians
drive like, well, Italians.
According to UNESCO, the United Nations' cultural branch, two
thirds of the world's historical artistic heritage are in Italy.
Tuscany, which is only one region of Italy, by itself possesses more
artistic treasures than the whole of Spain, which is the second
country in the world for cultural heritage. Practically all major
styles of Western architecture can be found in Italy.
But, if in
terms of beauty created by man Italy is unique and has no rival on
Earth, its natural beauty is also extreme.
From the Alps in the
North to Sicily in the South, the natural diversity of its
landscapes, scenery, habitats, vegetation and climates is very great
for such a relatively small country and not easy to find even in
much larger countries.
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| Thankfully for us, wealthy medieval Florentines possessed two
qualities that enrich a traveler's experience in Florence to this
day: they were raucously ill behaved, and they were racked with
guilt about being raucously ill behaved. The convenient combination
of riches, irreverence, and remorse led many Florentines to endeavor
throughout their lives both to obtain greater wealth and to secure a
comfortable spot in heaven. The way to the former was comparatively
simple; the way to the latter required, by their calculations, the
support, commissioning, and (typically posthumous) bequest of some
of the greatest works of art and architecture of the Renaissance.
Today, Florence is awash in Renaissance treasures—some stand along
the streets and in the squares where they have stood for centuries,
while others are stored for easy viewing in the city's celebrated
galleries and museums, most of which are works of art
themselves.
Italy
is a member of the Eurozone, the group of countries that uses the
Euro currency (€). (Prices below are expressed in U.S. dollars for
convenience; check the rate of exchange prior to arrival in Europe.)
English is not as common as in Germany, France, or, say, England, so
a phrase book will get you far.
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Where to Stay
While hotels
near the train station may be less expensive and perfect if you're
staying only a night or two, the more comfortable and typically
Florentine hotels are to the southeast of the station, near the
Ponte Vecchio, Piazza della Signoria, and Piazza del Duomo. Ask for
a room away from the street, since Florence can get noisy in the
evenings. Though things quiet down around midnight or so when, it is
said, the spirits inside all of the marble figures come alive and
walk the night... but they don't make any noise.
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Getting Around
Domestic and European flights to Florence arrive at Vespuci
Airport, while international flights "to" Florence arrive at Galileo
Galilei Airport in Pisa, but virtually all visitors arrive in
Florence at the Santa Maria Novella train station. This is one of
the largest rail stations in the region and serves virtually all
train traffic into and out of the city. There is a smaller station,
the Stazione Campo di Marte, that you have a slim chance of arriving
in or departing from. If so, there's a shuttle that runs from there
to the main station that operates 24 hours a day.
From the
station, try walking. The weather in Florence is almost always
pleasant enough, the city is very safe, and it's an easy route into
the city and to most hotels. If you have a lot of heavy bags or even
a few heavy kids, then pick up a bus schedule inside the station and
purchase a ticket. The fare is just a few dollars for each of you;
buy a ticket and cancel it when you get on. If you like it, you can
buy books of 5 or 10 tickets for a discount once you're in town from
bars or tobacco shops.
If you
don't have heavy bags or heavy kids and if you're just too cranky
and tired to walk, climb in one of the blue-and-white taxis. All
over the city, the taxis are expensive. Just prepare to pay more
than you thought you would. But don't worry, distances are
short.
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At Your Hotel
Free city
maps and other information can usually be obtained in hotel lobbies
or from the front desk.
Check in,
freshen up, and, with your bags unpacked, your room key in your
pocket, and a few spare euros, you're ready experience the
Renaissance.
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Around Florence
Your
comfortable shoes should be good for walking and standing. The city
is compact and virtually all things can be hoofed to or from, but
it's also packed with art and architecture, so you'll invariably
wait in line somewhere along the way. Be patient, it's that way for
everyone. Like everywhere else in the world, there are things that
you simply can't miss in Florence while others you should try to
squeeze in if you have time. Here they are:
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Musts:
Piazza della Signoria: Before you do anything
else, you should get yourself a cappuccino, or anything else you can
lazily sip, and just sit here, watching the pigeons, watching the
kids chase the pigeons, listening to old men talk about stuff even
if you can't understand a jot of what they're saying. Oh yes, and
you'll be in the company of Perseus and David, so
that's a plus. (OK, the latter is a copy, but the atmosphere is
there.) Get yourself acquainted with the square, since this will
most likely be the spot from which you base your explorations of
Florence.
Cathedral Santa Maria del Fiore: Otherwise known
as the Duomo, the cathedral is one of the most impressive in Italy.
Wear appropriate clothing if you intend to go inside. Mass is held
on a pretty standard schedule and there's almost always a seat (but
they really hate it if you get there late or leave early). The
sanctuary is free, of course, but you can get up to the cupola for a
fantastic view for about $6. Yes, yes, yes, the climb up those scary
looking stairs is very worth it! Don't miss the doors of the
baptistery and Giotto's bell tower next door.
Uffizzi Gallery: Originally built as government
offices (uffizi), the huge structure is now home to
Botticelli and da Vinci and other masters. If you have a full day,
reserve it. Otherwise, take a good look at the museum plan and head
for the three biggies: Birth of Venus, Adoration of the
Magi, and Holy Family. Entrance is about $8, but get
there at least an hour before closing so you're not turned
away.
Galleria dell'Accademia: David.
$8.
Yes, yes,
there's so much more. Picture galleries and rooms with collections
of other Tuscan greats are also open. The museum periodically
undergoes restoration of one room or another, so be prepared to miss
out on some things. The big guy, though, is always on
display.
Ponte Vecchio: It used to be the center of
bargain-priced jewelry in the region, but those days are over.
However, the prices are still not extremely high at the many, many,
many little and very similar shops on the bridge. For other shopping
delights, though prices generally are high in the city, try the Via
Maggio for antiques and Via del Parione for leather
goods.
Antipasti etc.: Look in out-of-the-way places,
hidden corners, and down dimly lit streets and stairs for some of
Florence's finest restaurants. Many near the train station are
somewhat expensive and cater to tourists (that is, they're sort of
lousy). Excellent, no, fantastic meals do not have to be expensive
in Florence. And if a place looks empty at 6 p.m., it's OK, supper
is later in the evening for most locals.
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If You Have Time:
Pitti Palace and the Boboli Gardens: Giambologna's
famous Venus and other works by the artist are on display in
the gardens, while the rest of the grounds house numerous museums
filled with masterpieces and not-so-famous-yet-incredibly-striking
Renaissance art. Just a five-minute walk from the Arno, the complex
charges varying rates, from $3 to $12, depending on what you want to
see.
Daytrip to Fiesole: Take a half
day and hop on bus #7 for a short, scenic trip to this small town,
once a part of the city proper. The views are spectacular from and
along the way to the town, and once there, you're chatting and
sipping options are wide open. |
| Located on a salt-water lagoon off the Adriatic Sea, about
two and a half miles from the mainland, Venice is situated on more
than 100 small islands. Its main waterway is the Grand Canal, which
meanders from famous Piazza San Marco (St. Mark's Square) to the
city's outskirts. Along the Grand Canal you'll see some of the most
beautiful palaces in Europe, dating from the time of the princely
Venetian merchants.
Italy
is a member of the Eurozone, the group of countries that uses the
Euro currency (€). (Prices below are expressed in U.S. dollars for
convenience; check the rate of exchange prior to arrival in Europe.)
English is not as common as in Germany, France, or, say, England, so
a phrase book will get you far.
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Where to Stay
No matter
what, always make reservations. In the summer, when all the hotels
are open, most of them are full. In low season, when many of the
people are gone, many of the hotels are closed. Always be sure you
have a place to stay before arriving.
Otherwise, you'll find the more (most) expensive hotels in
the San Marco sestieri or section, which is also where many
of the most popular attractions are. Castello and Cannaregio border
San Marco and are a little quieter and a little less
expensive.
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Getting Around
Flights
arrive at Marco Polo International Airport. Come on, when you start
off that way, you can't go wrong. Finding your way to town is easier
than a children's swimming pool game. ACTV #5 runs every half hour
and costs about $2 for the short ride.
Once in the
city, either from the airport or if you've just gotten off a train,
pick up a city map at the first tourist office or kiosk you can
find. Moving around the city is easier than it appears at first
glance and most things are in walking distance. Hoofing it is the
most popular mode of transportation, but there are water taxis as
well.
If you
remember nothing else, it's that gondolas are expensive and should
be used for fun, not for getting from place to place. There's a
difference between a romantic gondola and a utilitarian water taxi.
You'll see.
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At Your Hotel
Free city
maps and other information can usually be obtained in hotel lobbies
or from the front desk.
Check in,
freshen up, and, with your bags unpacked, your room key in your
pocket, and a few spare euros, you're ready to fall in love with St.
Marc's and the rest of Venice.
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Around Venice
Venice is
another one of those places that you'll find has lived up to all of
its expectations. Things here are right out of movies and books, and
you can't help but feel like you're on a set... joined, of course,
by thousands and thousands of extras. If you're short on time, or if
you want to spend less time sightseeing and more time living the
part, here's our list of starring roles, supporting characters, and
directors cuts:
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Stars:
Grand Canal Tour: Yes, it's one of those very
touristy things, but it's popular for a reason. Settle down, chat it
up with those ghastly Americans, and find yourself on a 2-mile ride
through the heart of Venice and past virtually all of its Gothic and
Renaissance treasures. Prices vary. Make reservations or hop right
on just off the Piassetta di San Marco, just in front of the Doge's
Palace.
Basilica di San Marco: A Byzantine church nearly
1,000 years old, St. Mark's is one of Europe's oldest, most
beautiful, and most visited places of worship. Look out for the
mosaics, some of the oldest in Italy, as well as the Old Testament
scenes and the Madonna with Apostles and Evangelists.
Entrance is free, but it's about $4 to get upstairs to the Museo
Marciano and Loggia dei Cavalli. There are a million reasons to
visit the spot, and millions do. Take a little extra care with your
stuff outside and in. NOTE: Photography is strictly forbidden and
visitors must be silent during their visit and wear appropriate
clothing.
St. Mark's Bell Tower: Elevators! When do you get
a view like that without having to clod up narrow, twisting
staircases! Enjoy the view of Venice from the spot where holy men
guilty of breaking the celibacy rule were suspended in wooden cages.
They're depicted in some of the paintings at the Galleria
dell'Accademia.
Galleria dell'Accademia: About $10 will get you in
to see one of the most beautiful collections of art anywhere in
Europe. Give yourself a half day if you're short on time, a full day
if you have it to spare.
Gondola Ride: You can't miss them. You'll have to
pay in advance by the 50-minute ride, with supplements for each
additional block of 25 minutes. Yes, you can pick up a souvenir
gondolier outfit on your way out of town, no worries.
Risotto with Seafood: Or one of the many other
dishes on Venice's menus. Most restaurants offer outdoor (oops, I
meant al fresco) dining most of the year. Wait for it if you have
to. Here, unlike other parts of Italy, regional dishes are so
favored that in fact they turn out better than something
out-of-the-ordinary (for them). That is, the specials and any menu
item written in chalk is going to be excellent, while special
requests may be a little more special than you anticipated
when you asked. Stick to what they know.
Three Words: Baked Ice Cream. (Is ice cream two
words?)
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Supporting Cast:
Piazza San Marco: You'll be through it many times,
but lingering in it may or may not be on your agenda. This is the
center of most activity in "old" Venice (as if there's a new one)
and the hub of the area most known to first-time visitors. Climb to
the top of the Campanile, the tallest structure in the city, for
amazing views and with only spending about $6.
Rialto Market: Try to get here at least once, but
don't worry if you can't. It's still a market, loud and busy. And
part of it is a fish market, frankly, with fish so stinky and ugly
you'll wonder who the genius was who first started cooking them. But
you'll still be able to find lots of ingredients for an impromptu
picnic, if that's your thing. (If the market doesn't suit you, there
are several places outside the market to get a take-out pizza.) On
the way out, take the Ruga San Giovanni exit beside the market to
head to a few shops and boutiques.
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Director's Cuts
Finding Your Way: As in
anywhere else in the world, a tourist map and a public transport
schedule will come in handy, but in Venice, keep in mind that
getting lost is part of the game. Italy's not like Germany or
Switzerland, where schedules mean what they say, where people wait
their turn to cross the street, where right angles and straight
lines rule. Here, people and time and all that they command move
when the spirit moves them. Get used to a little more chaos than you
otherwise would. Furthermore, there isn't a single thing in Venice
that will disappoint you, visually, at least. This is one of the
most strikingly beautiful cities on the Continent. The more you
wander the more you'll see, and, trust us, the more you'll fall in
love with the Queen of the Adriatic. Heck, you'll be on vacation
anyhow. Hit the pavement and don't worry if you find yourself
lost.
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